Baselworld 2013: Dazzling Hours - The Jacob & Co. Brilliant Steel And Brilliant Baguette Collections

Baselworld 2013: Dazzling Hours - The Jacob & Co. Brilliant Steel And Brilliant Baguette Collections

Brilliant" can mean many things –scintillating intelligence, visual dazzle –but in the world of precious stones, it refers to both a particular diamond cut, and is also, interestingly, the Russian word for diamonds themselves.

The brilliant cut, first designed in 1919 by renowned gemologist Martin Tolkowsky, was the first truly modern diamond cut, scientifically designed in accordance with both aesthetics and principles of optical science to bring out to the fullest degree the flashing display of refracted colors lovers of precious gems call "fire." It's in the spirit of this commitment of craftsmanship to the service of beauty that Jacob & Co offers its seductively feminine Brilliant Collections.

The Brilliant Steel Collection consists of a range of timepieces of unsurpassed femininity and elegance, and as befits the name, every Brilliant Steel Collection watch has a stainless steel case adorned with round, brilliant cut diamonds. The Brilliant Steel Collection's offerings are in three diameters –32, 38, and 44mm, in full pave or half pavé; and as well, models are offered with either one or two rows of diamonds set into the case.

The Brilliant Steel Collection also offers a cornucopia of selections in dial executions as well. Just as stainless steel forms the foundation of the cases, mother of pearl is the basis for all the Brilliant Steel Collection dials. However, Jacob & Co. offers these dials with a rich variety of precious gem dial markers as well: yellow sapphire, orange sapphire, tsavorite (a rare variety of garnet with an almost luminous deep green hue) and ruby, with an additional offering with multicolor sapphire hour markers.

In addition, offerings with mother of pearl dials set with diamonds are available, and for lovers of the fire of brilliant cut diamonds in all their unadulterated glory, there is a full pavé diamond dial offering as well –the largest of the full pavé models, in 44 mm, is resplendent with 497 brilliant cut diamonds.

Finally, the Brilliant Steel Collection offers a fascinating visual homage to the world of mechanics: the Brilliant Collection "Gears" timepieces. The dials of each offering in the "Gears" series show a representation of the cogs and wheels which make the very art of horology itself possible. The construction of the "Gears" dials makes them a work of art in their own right. Starting with a base layer of brass (of course, the most traditional material in watchmaking, used for over 500 years) each gear is individually cut from pure nickel, and then given a combination of galvanic and heat treatments to produce a rich final patina that expresses the depth of tradition in the watchmaker's art. Two versions of this unusual timepiece are offered: one with a pure metal dial, and one with background accents in mother of pearl. Each dial is a complex construction with a total of seven distinct layers.

The dial of each Swiss quartz movement powered watch also features diamond pavé set into the center of each mother‐of‐pearl dial.

The Brilliant Baguette Collection makes use of another cut –the baguette, or oblong cut, which especially accentuates luster and clarity, and which was much favored during the Art Deco period. Though the distinguishing cut is different in the Brilliant Baguette Collection than the Brilliant Steel Collection, the level of lapidary artistry and sophistication in sertissage (the art of gem setting) is every bit its equal.

The Brilliant Baguette Collection offers a very special take on the display of time – the hour and minute hands are suspended in panes of sapphire crystal, giving the timepieces an enticing transparency that echoes the refractive and reflective beauty of the precious gems with which they are ornamented. The use of this type of transparency is a particularly fitting combination with the baguette cut. Clocks and watches of this type, in which the hands move with no apparent connection to any mechanism, are known as "mystery" clocks and watches, and like the baguette cut were much in vogue during the Art Deco era. The synthesis of the two in the Brilliant Baguette Collection is not only beautiful in itself, but also an homage to the High Art Deco style which established much of the design language of fine jewelry and watchmaking, and which is still with us today.

Offered in a classic 38mm size, the Brilliant Baguette Collection features cases in white gold set with baguette‐cut precious gems in emerald, pink sapphire, diamond, ruby, and sapphire. Each precious colored gemstone version is also available with a colored gem inner case and diamond‐set outer case. Attention to detail in setting and design is a hallmark of this collection and can be seen in the fact that in the colored gem and diamond offerings, the inner face of the outer case is set with colored stones that match those on the inner case.

All Brilliant Baguette Collection timepieces are powered by a high‐precision Swissmade quartz movement.

Each of the Brilliant Baguette Collection Timepieces is a limited edition of only 36 pieces world wide –unsurpassed horological beauty for the wrists of the world's most elegant women.